Introduction: A Historic Ascent That Changed Mountaineering Forever
Standing at 8,848 meters above sea level, Mount Everest represents the ultimate challenge in mountaineering. For decades after its first ascent in 1953, the world’s highest peak remained an almost exclusively male domain. That changed on May 16, 1975, when Junko Tabei, a 35-year-old Japanese climber, became the first woman to climb Mount Everest. Her achievement wasn’t just a personal triumph—it shattered gender barriers in extreme sports and redefined what women could accomplish in mountaineering.
This comprehensive account explores Tabei’s journey from her humble beginnings to her historic summit, the challenges she overcame, and the lasting legacy of her achievement. At over 2,000 words, this article provides an in-depth look at one of mountaineering’s most inspirational stories.
Chapter 1: The Making of a Mountaineer – Junko Tabei’s Early Life
A Childhood in Post-War Japan
Junko Tabei was born on September 22, 1939, in Miharu, a small town in Fukushima Prefecture, Japan. Growing up in the aftermath of World War II, she belonged to a generation that faced food shortages and economic hardship. Her family was not wealthy, and opportunities for women in 1950s Japan were limited.
First Encounter With Mountains
At age 10, Tabei went on a school trip to Mount Nasu, her first real experience with climbing. Though not a particularly high peak (1,917 meters), the adventure left a lasting impression. Unlike many famous climbers who grew up in the mountains, Tabei came from flat terrain, making her later achievements even more remarkable.
Defying Gender Norms
In her teens, Tabei joined local hiking clubs, but societal expectations weighed heavily. Many believed mountaineering was too dangerous for women, and female climbers were often discouraged. Undeterred, she continued climbing while studying English literature at Showa Women’s University.
Early Mountaineering Career
By the 1960s, Tabei had climbed all of Japan’s major peaks, including Mount Fuji (3,776 meters). She gained recognition in Japan’s climbing community for her technical skills and endurance. In 1969, she co-founded the Joshi-Tohan (Women’s Mountaineering Club), Japan’s first all-female climbing group.
Chapter 2: The Impossible Dream – Planning the All-Women Everest Expedition
The Mountaineering World in the 1970s
Before 1975, only about 35 people had summited Everest—all of them men. Many in the climbing world believed women lacked the physical and mental strength for such an extreme climb. Some even claimed high altitudes could harm female reproductive health.
Assembling the Team
In 1971, Tabei and her club began planning an all-women expedition to Everest. The Japanese Women’s Everest Expedition (JWEE) consisted of 15 women, including climbers, doctors, and journalists. Their goal was not just to summit but to conduct scientific research on altitude effects.
The Struggle for Funding
Sponsorships were nearly impossible to secure. Companies dismissed the idea of women climbing Everest, forcing the team to fundraise creatively. They took factory jobs, sold handmade souvenirs, and even held charity concerts. After four years, they raised just $90,000—far less than male-led expeditions.
Choosing the Route
The team selected the South Col route, the same path taken by Hillary and Norgay in 1953. This was considered safer than the more technical North Ridge but still posed enormous risks, especially for a team with limited high-altitude experience.
Chapter 3: The Climb – Disaster and Determination
Arrival in Nepal (March 1975)
The team arrived in Kathmandu with 30 Sherpa guides and six tons of gear. From the start, they faced skepticism. Many male climbers doubted their abilities, and some Sherpas initially refused to work with women.
Base Camp to Camp II: Early Struggles
- April 5: Established Base Camp at 5,364 meters.
- April 20: Reached Camp II (6,500 meters), but progress was slow due to deep snow and harsh winds.
The Avalanche That Nearly Ended the Expedition
On May 4, disaster struck at 6,300 meters (20,700 feet). An avalanche buried Tabei and four teammates in their tents. Sherpas dug them out, but Tabei was unconscious for six minutes.
“I thought I was going to die,” she later recalled. “All I could think about was my three-year-old daughter.”
Despite injuries, she refused to quit. After two days of recovery, she continued upward with only one Sherpa, Ang Tshering, as support.
Chapter 4: Summit Day – The First Woman on Top of the World
The Final Push (May 16, 1975)
- 6:30 AM: Left Camp VI (8,230 meters) with Tshering.
- 12:35 PM: Reached the summit after six grueling hours.
Exhausted and oxygen-deprived, Tabei spent just 30 minutes at the top. She took photos, collected snow samples, and planted a Japanese flag. Her first words upon descending were:
“I didn’t climb Everest to be the first woman. I just wanted to climb mountains.”
Global Reaction
News of her success made headlines worldwide. She received congratulatory messages from the Japanese government and mountaineering legends like Sir Edmund Hillary. However, some critics still downplayed her achievement, calling it a “stunt.”
Chapter 5: Life After Everest – A Legacy Beyond the Summit
Completing the Seven Summits
Tabei didn’t stop at Everest. In 1992, she became the first woman to climb the Seven Summits (the highest peaks on each continent), further cementing her place in mountaineering history.
Environmental Activism
Shocked by the trash on Everest, she founded the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan in the 1990s to promote clean climbing. She led cleanup expeditions and advocated for sustainable tourism in the Himalayas.
Later Years and Death
Tabei remained active in climbing until her death from cancer in 2016 at age 77. Her funeral was attended by hundreds, including Nepal’s ambassador to Japan.
Why Junko Tabei’s Story Still Matters
Junko Tabei proved that mountains do not discriminate by gender. Her climb paved the way for thousands of female mountaineers, including:
- Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (First Nepali woman to summit Everest, 1993)
- Melissa Arnot (First American woman to summit without oxygen, 2016)
Today, women make up about 10% of Everest climbers—a small but growing number that traces back to Tabei’s pioneering spirit.
Also read: Camping in Style: Top Glamping Destinations for Nature Lovers
Junko Tabei didn’t just climb Everest; she redefined what was possible. Her story reminds us that the greatest barriers are often the ones we impose on ourselves—and that with enough determination, even the highest peaks can be conquered.
